This particular smoking jacket is made of wool challis with a wool flannel lining quilted with lambswool. Animal products like wool and hides "breathe." That's what makes them comfortable in all kinds of weather; they keep you really warm in cold weather, and they don't make you sweat in hot weather. They "breathe." Faux leather simply is not a substitute for the real thing - looks the same, but, baby, it ain't! Ditto for a lot of modern fabrics.
Wool challis was first woven in the mid-1800's in London. It would have been new, and therefore fashionable, during Civil War times. One of it's greatest properties is that it could be "printed" on with small, multi-colored patterns. It also draped well, had a softness of feel, but most importantly, it was easily cared for. So folks wanting to show their wealth would appreciate being seen by other men in a brightly decorated smoking jacket. Also, formal dress was common at dinner and, when retiring to the study, smoking jackets prevented ashes and smoking odors from ruining the formal attire.
Once settled into the 1800's "man-cave," the men could enjoy a game of cards and a cigar. They might play Faro, Poker, Casino, Euchre, Monte, Seven-Up, or Chuck-a-luck. Interesting cards with no numbers and square corners. They're larger than today's playing cards, too.
Their cigars were kept in small cigar holders/cabinets.
Humidors decorated with animals of the hunt would hold pipe tobacco.
Then it's down to the basement for some displays of photos, artifacts, and information.
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