Friday, August 16, 2013

The End of Bearizona - Fabulous!




There were at least a half dozen juvenile bears (bear?) in this enclosure.  They were all up moving around, climbing on the rocks, and, see that stock tank in the middle?  I don't know if that was for drinking or ... maybe the bear doesn't know either...



Silly boy!



I guess he needed to rest after his bath, because he climbed up on some rocks, leaned back, rested his arm on his leg, and just surveyed the world for awhile.  He seemed mighty satisfied with what he saw...


Then we came to the baby bears!  (Well, this was labeled as "K - 12.")  The first ones we see are up a tree.  The next picture is also of a baby bear, but look! at the size of those paws!!  I guess they're like Momma always said about dogs:  look at a puppy's feet if you don't know what breed it is because they will grow into their feet.  She meant, giant feet would mean a giant dog.  I'm guessin' this is gonna be a giant bear for sure!
 

This bear stayed up the tree the whole time we were there.  Others were walking around, still others were sleeping, and we were only a few feet away all of it.  This was a way-cool place.  I would absolutely recommend it to each and every person out there!  Outstanding!



Thursday, August 15, 2013

Red Fox, Swift Fox, Peacocks, Porcupines, Badgers, Bobcats, Beaver ...

Bearizona just gets better and better!  Meet Yazzi and Francis.  Here is where it gets confusing:  Yazzi is a swift fox; Francis is a marbled red fox.  Now why would someone name a fox that is white, a marbled red?
Yazzi - a Swift Fox
I had never heard of the Swift Fox before.  He gets his name because he can run up to 30 mph! They are both only the size of large housecats.  They used to range from Mexico to Canada, but that area has now shrunk to only 40% of what it was.  There are reintroduction efforts under way on Indian reservations that are very successful though, so not to worry everyone!

Francis - a marbled red fox



Wandering free were peacocks and their babies.  Well, I guess this was actually a peahen and her baby.  These guys 'n gals have a reputation of being very aggressive, but here they were as tame as a chicken - but then, we didn't try to pick one up or mess with its baby!  And, yes, even the babies have the pretty feathers on top of their heads.





Now, who would have thought to look up a tree for a porcupine?






And here's a lil' feller I've never seen stuffed or alive!  A badger - the bad boy of the Plains!


That coat of fur over his back is as thick as a horsehair saddle blanket.  It instantly reminded me of an armadillo.  I would not want to tangle with this guy anywhere!  He was up running around while most everyone else at Bearizona was sleeping.


Look at how long this bobcat's back toes are, and how big his front paw is!  I love the silly tufts of hair at the ear tips.  What's that all about??


This is a beaver.  I've never seen one up this close.  Look at that flat paddle of a tail!  Again with the sleeping...


I think this raccoon was playing opossum.  If you look really close you can see his eye is open just a bit.  Check out those feet, too.

They also have a Birds of Prey in Flight show, but it didn't fit into our time frame...

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

The Bears

Now, we're expecting to see a couple of bears.  Most everything has been asleep or not moving around a whole lot, so even if we see some bears we figure they'll be sleeping.  Guess what?


Aww, isn't he adorable?!  But, even sleeping, there were so many of them.  I want you to notice that there are no pesky insects buzzing around him.  I highly commend "Bearizona" for the level of their care for all of these animals.  Even horse owners have trouble keeping down the bot flies (unless they give them a medication that kills the larva in their poop.)  This place is not your average zoo, folks.  I am so glad on so many levels that we stopped here.  Thank you, Granpa, you are the BEST!

We've seen lots and lots and lots of bear in our time of vacationing, but never a sleeping bear.  They're funny!  And just like us humans!


Look at the size of those paws!!  If these guys had been up walking around we would not have ever gotten this photo!  I'm glad they were snoozing!


I would bet there were a dozen or more bear here, but, we discover, there are even more in the walk-around part - along with lots more species of Arizona critters - some that we had never seen before !  We are definitely getting our money's worth.  If you're ever in Arizona...

But you'll have to come back again tomorrow to see the rest of the animals.  (I hope I'm not boring you with the photos...

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Bearizona - Bears in Arizona


So we're rolling down the Interstate across Arizona.  The scenery and the clouds are just beautiful.  I keep asking myself, are we really going to live in Arizona, the desert southwest, the Mojave!  Well, yes, for at least three months anyway.




There aren't a lot of billboards out here. (Thank you very much.) But occasionally I see one talking about Bearizona.  That's a weird name.  It takes me a few billboards to get comfortable with it.  Seems it's one of those wildlife parks where you drive through - with your windows rolled up I hope!

We've been making excellent time, and I for one would really like to stretch my legs a bit.  I see another billboard, and I decide, what the heck, I'll see if Granpa will stop.  He checks his watch and the mileage left until we reach Kingman.  He says, why not, and we exit.  Now, the "why not" is always contingent on how many miles off the highway someplace is.  We are both amazed to discover it's right next to the Interstate.  Irresistible, eh.

I love the wood carving at the entrance. (Don't miss noticing the fish in the scene!)  There's no welcome center - just pull up and pay your money.  So much for stretching my legs.  Hmm.  The price is a bit much for my liking, but we're here, and I do love those bears...

The first thing we see are Dahl sheep.  (Now, their sign said "Doll" sheep, but I'm gonna give them the benefit of the doubt that they just did that so tourist would know how to pronounce their name.  We first came across these guys in the Canadian Rockies.  There's no mistaking them for domestic sheep or Big Horn sheep or any other kind of sheep.  These are definitely Dahl's.)



There is a veritable flock of these guys, including babies.

Next it says we will see burros.  A tourist may think this is a burro, but seeing as we have one at home, we know better.  (Geez, you just can't trust anybody these days!) It's known as a Crucifix donkey because of the markings across the shoulder and down the spine look like a cross.

Our Mordecai is a much happier donkey that this guy!

This, however, is a burro:


We cross a gated cattle gap and search for the next animal.  What's that under the pile of fallen timbers?  It's a wolf!!  Do you see it? A white wolf !!  Christopher, our youngest son, had a white wolf.  (Didn't fit too well with our flock of chickens and guineas when he came to visit - but he was a way cool "dog!") 


Whisper had yellow eyes, just like this guy.


As long as everyone's tummy is full I guess that you can get the lion to lay down with the lamb (or wolf with a sheep.)  But, just in case someone wants a midnight snack, Bearizona has super tall fencing and the gates that they close between species at night.  There is a whole pack of wolves here, not just this one.

(Are you gettin' tired of the pictures yet?  This placed is so amazing that we took a zillion of 'em.)

Next up, just to match the white wolves, we find white buffalo.  A whole bunch of 'em!  How'd they do that??  I thought white buffalo were super-rare.


 Granpa liked this picture the best.

They had the standard dark brown buffalo, too, but I just can't show you everything!  Next up:
Big Horn sheep.  There's no mistaking these guys either!  Again, there are lots more than what's in this picture - including babies.  There were babies of all the different species - I guess because this place has been here for three years and these guys (and gals) just keep reproducing.  Works for me!!

Ohhh.  It's bears you wanted to see!  We'll, you ain't seen nuthin' yet!  There are bears, bears and more bears - and a place to stretch my legs.  You can't call it all a petting zoo, though there is one in there.  But you really won't believe what comes next.  See you tomorrow!


Monday, August 12, 2013

The Butterfield-Overland Stagecoach Line

Formally it was known as Wells-Fargo, but the stagecoach portion got the nickname "Butterfield Line" because John Butterfield was the president of the operation.  


In 1852, Wells-Fargo began delivering mail out to the American west by steamship and/or overland by railroad to the end of the line.  Then the mail went on by stagecoach.  Until the stageline, communications east and west had been twice a month.  By 1857, there was twice a week delivery.  (And we get upset when a text or email isn't delivered in two seconds!  Spoiled brats, we are!)

In the beginning, Wells-Fargo contracted independent stagelines to carry their stuff:  the Pioneer Stage Line, the Overland Mail Company, Ben Holladay's Overland Express.  Once it was confirmed that this would be a viable method of delivery, "Butterfield" began owning their own coaches or buying up the fore-mentioned companies in order to assure timely deliveries, and built it into the largest stagecoach empire in the world.  Now, Wells Fargo is forever linked with the six-horse Concord Coach racing across the vast plains and high mountains of the West.

The Butterfield Line ran from St. Louis, Missouri to San Francisco.  In 1860, the Pony Express was established to run from St. Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, delivering mail in just 10 days.  See our post at http://thetravelerstwo.blogspot.com/2012/07/the-pony-express-and-split-rock-wyoming.html.  Eventually Wells-Fargo would operate the Pony Express route from Salt Lake City to Sacramento.

Traveling day and night at a whizzing 5 to 12 miles an hour, the stage only stopped to change horses and let passengers have a meal of coffee and beef jerky - a delicacy of sorts today, a necessity back then.  After 25 days of this (Let's see YOU live a month on coffee and beef jerky!) passengers and mail would finally be delivered to San Francisco.  The roads traveled were not your interstate highways of today.  They were dry, dusty, rough and dangerous.  One had to have a mighty good reason for taking off through the American West!

By 1869 the Transcontinental Railroad was completed and the Wells-Fargo stagecoach endeavor lost out to the never-tiring "iron horse,"  Into the early part of the 1900's, though, they continued stagecoach service in rural parts of the West where railroad tracks didn't go. Of course, Wells-Fargo lives on today as a solid banking institution.

Sunday, August 11, 2013

Cibola - The Seven Cities of Gold

The tremendous wealth of gold that the Spaniards stole from the Aztec of Central America and the Inca of South America led them to hope more precious metals would be found in North America.

When the Franciscan priest, Marcos de Niza, told the Spanish government in Mexico City that he had actually seen the fabled Cibola, they wanted to believe him.  “It is situated on a level stretch on the brow of a roundish hill,” the friar said. “It appears to be a very beautiful city, the best that I have seen in these parts.”  That's pretty specific, and he was willing to act as a guide to the very location itself.

In 1541, when conquistador Francisco Vazquez de Coronado and his men got to the site all they found was a lil' ol' adobe pueblo.  (How embarrassing!  To sail all the way from Spain! only to find a mud hut!)

Well, no quitter was Coronado.  He spent the next two years searching the American southwest for those cities made of gold.  He and his men - in those metal suits of armor conquistadors wore back then - traveled thousands of miles on horseback and by foot in search of gold.  They went as far as present-day KANSAS!  No gold.  Sorry, guys.  It was like buying a lottery ticket nowadays: 1 in 475,000,000 chance to win!

Actually, it was worse.  Coronado had to go back to Spain empty handed, flat broke and deep in debt.  I'll bet that was a miserable sail back across the Atlantic!!  Worse still, he had to tell the investors back in Spain, who went into debt themselves to finance the expedition, that he had found nada.  The gold was there, they just didn't look underground in, oh, say, Colorado!


Saturday, August 10, 2013

Picacho Pass

Some folks in the New Mexico Territory (which included the now-states of New Mexico and Arizona) felt that they were treated like step-children to the other parts of the United States.  When the Civil War broke out, naturally these dudes wanted to join the Confederate States of America.  They had a plan to enlist southern Californians to join up with the Confederacy thereby giving Jefferson Davis ports on the west coast to land in and occupy.  Pretty good idea, huh?

Problem was, there were already Union troops in California.  It was these guys that came into the Territory from the west searching for the rebels that operated out of Tucson.  About 50 miles northwest of Tucson, around Picacho Peak, the Yanks and the Rebs met up.

Twelve Union cavalry and one loyal scout from Tucson under the command of Lt. James Barrett were wandering the countryside looking for the Rebels.  Sergeant Henry Holmes commanded those Rebs; they were known as the Arizona Raiders. 

Barrett's orders were to not fire on Confederates, but to wait for reinforcements.  Disregarding his orders (who's the rebel now!), Barrett engaged Johnny Reb.  Over the next hour and a half, Barrett not only managed to get a few of his men killed, but got himself killed, too.  The battle was mostly a draw.

The Californians retreated to some Pima Indian villages, and the Arizona Rangers rushed back to Tucson to warn of the Union incursion.  Because no Confederate reinforcements were sent by Jeff Davis, Union troops later rode calmly into Tucson and occupied the town.

Civil War battles were also fought in Dragoon Springs, Stanwix Station, and Apache Pass.  These locations, including Picacho Pass, were all re-mount stations on the Butterfield Stagecoach route and Butterfield was obliged to stop its service when the Civil War began because of the increased danger.

Civil War re-enactors (the only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys) gather on the anniversaries of these battles and replay the events.  Seems there are more re-enactors than there were original participants!  Silly boys.

Union Lieutenant Barrett's grave can still be found out there today, undisturbed and unmarked.  And time marches on.





Friday, August 9, 2013

Arizona at Last!


Arizona became the 48th state (and the last of the 48 contiguous states) to join the United States on February 14, 1912 (Valentine's Day!)  That year, an earthquake caused a 50 mile crack in the San Francisco Range, but earthquakes aren't as frequent or generally as damaging as California earthquakes.

You can see from this picture I took at the Arizona welcome center/rest area that it's divided into several distinct regions.  Ultimately we will end up in the River Country on the edge of California.

Eighty years BEFORE the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock the Spanish Conquistadors "landed" in  the Arizona River Country.  They came via the Gulf of Mexico.  Marcos de Niza met up with the Sobaipuri Indians (sigh, to be politically correct I should say Native Americans...) in 1539, and Coronado (probably a more familiar name to you) came the next year in search of Cibola (the Seven Cities of Gold).  He and his men hung around for a couple of years, but finally admitted that Cibola was a myth and high-tailed (or rather high-sailed it) home to Spain.  Over a hundred years later, in the 1690's and on into the 1700's, the Spanish Society of Jesus sent folks over with an eye to converting the locals to Christianity.  In 1752, Spain sent some dudes over to build a presidio, or fortified town, at Tubac.  Then, the year before Americans on the east coast began their fight for independence from England, the Spanish built another presidio in Tucson.  About fifty years after that, Mexico won its independence from Spain, and this area became Nueva California, a Mexican territory.

In the Mexican-American War, after the United States occupied Mexico City...  (Hmmm.  If we had kept Mexico City back then we wouldn't have to worry about legalizing all the illegal aliens because they would already be Americans!)  As I was saying, though, after the U.S. occupied Mexico City and the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed in 1848, the U.S. owned much of what was then northern Mexico. From a portion of this acquisition, the New Mexico Territory was formed which included what is now the state of Arizona.  Unfortunately, just a few years later, in 1861, the southern parts of the New Mexico Territory seceded from the Union and joined the Confederacy.  We all know how well that worked out...  In 1863, the United States Congress passed a bill designating the western portion of the New Mexico Territory to be known as the "Arizona Territory."  When Lincoln signed that bill into law, the name Arizona became official and permanent.

The Battle of Picacho Pass in what is now the state of Arizona has the distinction of being the location of the western-most battle of the Civil War.




Thursday, August 8, 2013

New Mexico's Flowering Landscape

Here it is, August, the hottest month of the year in America's desert southwest.  But it is also monsoon season.  Sometimes that means an occasional rain shower, but this year it means lots of rain. Rain means fields of wildflowers, green vegetation, and flowering bushes.




I can't wait until we get to Arizona and get to see the Saguaro cactus though.  I first saw them the summer I turned five years old.  Talk about "don't touch"!  To see an entire landscape filled with those giant phenomenon!  Nope, I can't wait!


Wednesday, August 7, 2013

The Mission Church of San Jose de la Laguna


Finished in 1699, the Spanish mission church of San Jose de la Laguna was built to minister to the Laguna Native American people.  This tribe still exists today, numbering about 7,000 members.  Kawaik is the real name of the tribe, and they speak Keresan.  Refugees of the Pueblo Indian Revolt of the 1680's and the Spanish re-conguest of 1692 founded Pueblo Laguna. 

I snagged this photo from Wikipedia.  They credit the federal HABS—Historic American Buildings Survey of New Mexico project and Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, NM,31-LAGUP,1-4 with allowing the image.

This was taken in 1934 from the back side.

There is a uranium mine on this reservation, and they have a construction company with offices all over the world.  No money problems for these guys!

In the 1800's a bunch of these guys adopted the Irish name "Riley" to use in the white-man's world, so if you ever meet someone with the last name of Riley but they look like Native Americans, ask if they are part of the Laguna Pueblos!

(I DO love researching history!!  Thanks to my readers for the encouragement!)

 


Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Volcanos of New Mexico

According to the New Mexico Natural History,  http://nmnaturalhistory.org/volcanoes-of-new-mexico.html, the top recommended places for beginning volcanologists to explore (because New Mexico's volcanic past is still so evident and undamaged) are:
  1. Capulin Volcano National Monument (33 miles east of Raton in the north east corner). With a paved road to the summit crater, a rim trail and a trail to the bottom of the crater, this is one of the most accessible volcanoes in the country.
  2. El Malpais National Monument and Zuni Bandera Volcanic Field  (72 miles west of Albuquerque). This "Hawaii in the desert Southwest" allows visitors to see primary lava flow structures. Many terms used to descibe fresh lava flows were originally defined from studies in this area!
  3. Petroglyph National Monument (Albuquerque’s west side). The petroglyphs were etched on lava flows that erupted from a classic fissure. This site includes both unusual small-scale volcanic features and some typical examples of the interior of lava flows.
  4. Rio Puerco Volcanic Necks (30 miles west of Bernalillo). This offers visitors one of the best views in the world of the near-surface interiors of small volcanoes. And the setting is classic Southwest, with buttes and mesas.
  5.  Valles Caldera (40 miles west-northwest of Santa Fe). This is a monument to New Mexico’s undiscovered potential. Quite simply, from the perspective of morphology, the Valles Caldera is a better example of a supervolcano than Yellowstone. It is the "poster-child" for large calderas.
  6. Valley of Fires State Recreation Area  (three miles west of Carrizzo). One of the longest young lava flows in the world, with features often seenin textbook examples of young lava flows.
  7. Zuni Salt Lake Crater (County Road 601 between Fence Lake and Quemado). This classic young volcanic crater formed explosively when hot magma encountered ground water. It is one of dozens of explosive craters, called "maars" by geologist, occurring throughout New Mexico.
By stopping on the shoulder of Interstate 40 we were able to get some pictures of an ancient lava flow that essentially hasn't eroded or been lost to time.



Vast populations may not want to live in New Mexico, but I surely do like driving across it.  The scenery is ever changing, unique, and beautiful.  Forget flying; I wanna drive across America!  Anyone remember the Dinah Shore Show and her theme song:  See The USA in Your Chevrolet ?

Monday, August 5, 2013

For All Military Personnel

This is written, and copied here by permission, by a friend we made while on contract in North Dakota.

A Trip to Nowhere

By Michael Harvey

It is not easy to say goodbye to loved ones prior to going to war because of the specter of never again saying hello.

Five days after leaving Fort Gordon, Georgia and thirty days before reporting for duty in Viet Nam, my family and I pulled up to my mother’s home in Grand Forks, ND. The door opened with my grandma making a beeline for our youngest child, Wendy. Mom grabbed Justin while Margo and I tagged along inside.

Do you want to feel like an appendix? You know, useless, unnecessary, a vestige of something no longer needed? Try sitting in a room with a mother, grandmother, great-grandmother, sister and two cute, adorable, darling little children. The ladies no longer required my existence. I went out and began hauling in the required tonnage for transporting two children under two years old. Frankly, I hoped for a little fuss over me, since I was the one going to war.

I planned to do a lot during this thirty-day leave. Parting visits with friends and family.  Much of the time spent searching for ways to condense life-long relationships into a portable format to take with me on this daunting venture.  Handshakes turned into hugs, in spite of our manly reserve. Hugs felt tighter and lasted longer. Were the embraces strong enough to last forever? A look. A touch. A tender moment. All stored in a place of reverence within my soul as a safeguard against loneliness, desolation and fear.

As a girl, my sister, Joan, dreamed of being a June bride. Everyone decided on a May wedding to allow me to be at the ceremony. A cousin recently confided, “That change of plans was because we didn’t know what lay in your future.” Glad I didn’t know that then.  It may have broken my heart to realize the sacrifices family members and friends made on my behalf. Knowing others felt uncertain of my fate scared me.

Our father died in 1945 near the end of another war, leaving me the honor and privilege of walking Joan down the aisle. As we waited at the back of the church, I felt tempted to ask where did this beautiful, radiant woman come from and what happened to my little sister? With pride I wore my United States Army Dress Blue uniform.

Later in the war, returning soldiers received advice not to wear their uniform in public. A few people possessed more spit than good sense and self-respect.

The next month brought a dizzying stream of friends and family visits. With ten days of my leave remaining, Grandma asked me to drive her to the bus depot.

The bus depot was downtown then, right where Hugo Magnuson once owned a grocery store. Grandma carried only one cardboard suitcase and the standard issue twelve-cubic-foot, industrial duty, professionals only, black purse. She carried more on a daily basis in that purse than most people had in their car trunk.

We waited in the warming spring sunshine for the bus. Grandma reached into her purse, pulled out an envelope and handed me a picture of my grandfather, her husband, lying in his coffin.

My grief at his death came searing back without warning. Grandpa died a short while before. As with all other deaths in the family, relatives delayed notifying me until after the burial to prevent me from returning for the funeral. The military school I attended began the day after his funeral. No one knew how much I resented their “consideration”, for it denied me the chance to mourn as part of the family.  Grandma put the photo away as the bus rounded the corner. The driver took her suitcase from me and I returned to Grandma’s side.

Over the roar of the idling bus engine Grandma said that she best say goodbye and that we were never again to see one another. It finally happened, someone admitted that I might not survive the war.  Everyone had avoided any mention of my possible death in this fledgling war. Death became fearful for me to contemplate: it wasn’t an abstract concept, this death would be mine. Life was good; I wasn’t ready to let it go.

Talking braver than I felt, I told Grandma that I planned to return alive from Viet Nam, like her son, my Uncle, who survived World War II. She hushed me and said now, with Pa gone, she planned to visit her sisters one last time. Have you ever stood near a cliff and watched part of it slip loose and crash to the valley floor below? I did that day. I couldn’t think of a world without this woman’s presence.

At my birth the doctors told my parents to have me baptized right away as I might not live long. Grandma said, “That is foolish talk. Give him to me. He will not die now.”

Hour after hour Grandma held me and comforted me and fed me with an eye-dropper filled with my mother’s milk. Nurses and doctors came and took my temperature and blood pressure and performed their little tests. But, when Death knocked at my door, Grandma barred the way and said, “No. Not this child. Not now. Go away.”  And Death turned away. When my mother regained her strength, Grandma gave me back to her, full of life. Now this guardian of my life said that her death drew near and I did not have the ability to bar Death from her door.  She proved correct. She died, while I was still at war.

The month continued to slip away, only a single day remained. I kissed Margo and the children and drove myself to the airport. Actually saying goodbye required more courage than I possessed. I did it, parting with all those people and saying one eternal goodbye. I never truly left my family, only a little delayed in coming home from doing my nation’s work.

My beloved North Dakota was slipping away. Would I ever see the prairie again? When I once more met the soil of North Dakota, whose head would bow in reverence, mine or my mourners?

In spite of all of the brave talk around friends and family, I was uncertain of the length of my future. Not really scared, more in awe of how precious life had become. No, completely terrified is accurate. Behind me were family and friends. I was leaving them for what? A while? A one-year tour in Viet Nam? Forever? The only person in uniform, I stood out. The pretty lady directed me to my seat and smiled. I noticed her eyes shone—as did mine.

Averting my attention, I looked at the aging DC-3 airplane. There certainly would never be a pogo stick tournament held in here! This “tail dragger” airliner was definitely cramped. As I moved to the rear, the cabin floor and ceiling were determined to meet—somewhere near my belt buckle. I wondered if this was the same airliner Margo and I had flown to Winnipeg on our honeymoon.
Checking for fastened seat belts, the pretty lady walked the aisle. I felt securely wedged in without the belt, but clicked it shut, just to see her smile. The takeoff closely resembled a small child in a magic flying cape (in reality his mom’s dishtowel). The child flapping and hopping about on the front lawn, all desire and fantasy, with little actual flight. The airplane threatened to follow the child’s example.

Remember swooping over those dusty, dippy, daring country roads in a roaring car? The ones where, on each downhill run, your stomach made a marvelous maneuver? After a few dozen swoops high in the air, those maneuvers are not nearly so marvelous. The “Emesis Bag” was soon put to use, as designed, as were the two replacements.

In Denver, I transferred to a newer plane that had no memory of the 1940s which was long before this plane’s time. Those of us in uniform nodded to one another in acknowledgement that we had answered when our countrymen called us to duty and had not turned away.

It was true, but disappointing; the pretty ladies saved their best smiles for us servicemen who sat with practiced bearing. For a while, my ego was convinced it was just for me. Whether for the uniform, what it represents, or because I am a nice guy, the smiles were received with gratitude and a longing to get them from someone who knew my name.

This airliner, though much younger than the previous one, had mastered the magic of flawless flight. But, all too soon it became a matter of wills. The pilots and the plane sought to land. A dozen men in uniform were content to remain aloft and not land. We lost. The pilots won. The plane touched down in San Francisco—the last connection on my way to war.

We came from all over the United States. Most every branch of military service was represented. From senior commissioned officers to privates first class, fresh from combat-training schools. Eighteen-year-old men with short haircuts. Some older men belonged to the “41, 51, 61 Club.” They were called to war in 1941 for World War II. In 1951 they returned to active duty to fight in Korea. The construction of the Berlin Wall in 1961 brought them back into service once again. Off to war in an airliner, instead of a troop ship. But off to war, nonetheless.

Among the men on that plane our common bonds were few. All of us had raised our right hands and sworn to defend the Constitution against all enemies, foreign and domestic. Each of us had lawful orders sending us to the Republic of Viet Nam. At the direction of the President, every man-jack of us was being placed in harm’s way. Harm’s way—what a stupid euphemism—we were all going where other men would try to kill us. Not for who we were or what we had done, but because we were in our nation’s service. Except for an occasional liar, everyone would admit to being afraid. Not the kind of scared when somebody startles you. Certainly not the terror we would come to experience. But rather the shock that this was indeed real and happening, right now, to us.

After days, weeks and, in some cases, months of wondering, we were about to fly into a war. Would we meet the expectations of friends, family and colleagues? Could we meet our own expectations? Just what was expected of us?

The processing was amazingly swift. Show your orders, check your luggage, get a boarding pass, file into a waiting room and wait. Sounds like your last airplane trip? Not hardly.

At the other end of your trip, there may have been friends or family to greet you. If you were returning home, there would be many familiar sights. The very terminal you had left. Streets you had traveled many times before. A door that opened with the turn of a well-worn key. Home, your own bed, a feeling of comfort and security.

If your last trip was outbound, maybe you’d be seeing some friends or relatives you could do without, thank you very much. It may have been a business trip with the same old boring round of meetings.
Psst, let me tell you a little secret. If you offered to trade that last miserable, bumpy, boring, dreaded trip with the men on this plane, you might be surprised at how many offers you’d get in return.
A pretty lady in a dark blue uniform used the PA system to invite us onto the airplane. Obviously, no command-voice training at flight attendants’ school. We were seated in a small room. All of us were men who knew how to respond to directions. She could have passed on her instructions in a moderate, clear voice. Instead she chose to use an amplified voice full of static and interference. But, she was pretty.

As we entered and filed down the narrow aisle, each man hastily stowed a carry on bag in the overhead, sat down and buckled up. No squalling kids. No harumphing old men squeezing past your knees. No teenagers giggling shyly at each other. No mothers about to hit their personal limits. No cranky businessmen sniffing at everyone not in pinstripes and wingtips. No embarrassingly-in-love young couples starting down the road of romance and life. Just two-hundred-plus men of honor, answering their country’s call.

The airliner crouched at the beginning of a long runway. The engines screamed, “go — Go — GO.” Brakes locked wheels to pavement and resisted this reckless defiance of gravity and logic. If mankind was meant to fly they would have grown . . .

The pilot intervened and cast his vote with the engines and the Brothers Wright. Gravity gave up, for the moment, and we sped toward destiny. A pretty attendant rose and prepared to tell us of flotation devices and exit doors and smoking rules.

From the back, came a clear tenor voice raised in a song made famous by singer Larry Verne in 1960. Startled, the pretty lady paused with an aching, haunted look and blinked away a tear, as the notes hung in the air, expressing the thoughts of every service member on the plane.

“Please, Mr. Custer, I don’ wanna go.”

In Hawaii, the pilot demonstrated his competence and the airliner drifted down for a whisper-quiet landing—like a wet paintbrush stroking a sanded pine board. During the re-fueling, we wandered through the terminal and gazed at the last American soil we would see for a year. For some, it was the last glimpse.

Dawn lightened the eastern sky when a pretty lady called us back to earth, reality and the airliner. The struggle for altitude seemed longer. Perhaps it was because the passengers were all perfectly content to remain in this tropical paradise — instead of the tropical hell that waited just beyond the curve of the planet Earth.

Talking became harder. Most everyone was slipping back in time. Back to home. Back to family. Back to love. Back to life. Still, the bit of metal that held us defied our thoughts and pushed aside the air while seeking a destination. Or was it destiny?

Always, before, the pretty ladies stood at the front of the airplane to make announcements or pass on information. Now, the coiled cord for the microphone slanted down the cabin wall to someone sitting very straight and staring forward. During the previous part of the flight the cabin crew was cheerful with lots of eye contact and smiles for us. Now, the cabin crew distanced themselves. They realized the ride was over. A well-rehearsed voice said, “Please extinguish all smoking materials. Please return your trays to the locked position. Place your seat backs in the full upright position. Check your seatbelts prior to landing.” Her voice went flat, “Gentlemen, we will be on a rapid descent into Ton Son Nhut Airport. Welcome to Viet Nam.”

Now, don’t get me wrong. I am sure the lady did not intentionally lie to us. Probably some corporate executive dreamed up the phrase, “rapid descent.”  That is NOT what occurred. All of Viet Nam was a combat zone. This made our aircraft a potential target. A slow, leisurely descent over areas where an unseen enemy might hope to shoot you down, was unthinkable.

The pilot finally confessed that the Wright brothers were, indeed, wrong. Powered flight was an illusion. Gravity rules. Demonstrating his versatility, the pilot slammed on the air brakes, bringing the airplane to a complete stop—midair. This allowed the airliner to fall from the sky like a very fancy rock. Our stomachs lurched as though we were on a roller-coaster. Except, our stomachs stayed up for the entire descent. We knew we were going to land, but prayed it would be with the wheels down and rolling on top of the pavement. Our pilot once again painted the sanded pine board.

Reluctantly, we had said goodbye to the real world of family and friends and now said hello—to the nowhere of war.

Michael Harvey served as the military police security officer for Saigon and Cholon, 1965-1966. He wrote his military memoirs, family stories and a book of children’s stories, “The Adventures of Theologis.” Michael taught courses for the Osher Lifelong Learning Institute (OLLI@UND) on preserving legacy and self-publishing.

You can buy Michael's books on Amazon.

Into New Mexico and Beyond

You have to admit, the Interstate highway system in America is going above and beyond in their construction of bridges and overpasses:

 
I wonder if the prong horn antelope appreciate the effort?


New Mexico, surprisingly to me (I'm embarrassed!), didn't become a state until 1912 - as the 47th state to join the United States.  Mexico lost their war with America (1846 - 1848) and gave up the land now known as the American Southwest and California.  Texas was a nation unto itself  from 1836 to 1846, and laid claim to land west of the Rio Grande (Translation: Grand River).  In 1850, for $10 million, Texas settled with the Federal government and allowed that the land west of the Rio Grande could be Federal land.  That then became the New Mexico Territory, encompassing what would become most of Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado.  (Wow.  If you think Texas is big NOW, you should have seen it in 1849!  Woo-hoo!) But New Mexico was just a Territory of the United States until 1912.


No, this isn't a wagon train, it's a freight train.  I suspect New Mexico wishes it was a wagon train, because here it is, the 21st century, and New Mexico's population is kinda at the bottom of the list nationwide:  36th out of 50 states, as far as population density goes.  

She is also considered a mountain state, and, as we drove all the way across her mid-section, we can attest to the fact that there are mountains everywhere.  They're not as big as the Colorado Rockies, but there certainly are a lot of them.  It was a beautiful drive, with landforms on both sides of the road, topped by gorgeous clouds of all kinds, and off in the distance as the afternoon heated up we watched huge rain showers march across the landscape.  

 

This is a mesa in front of one of the mountains.  It's like a broad terrace with an abrupt slope on one side.  Some folks refer to it as a bench - but in the American southwest it is absolutely called a mesa!

There are a multitude of different kinds of rock and sediment, but there's not a lot of difference in the vegetation...




A lot of her mountains are volcanic in nature though they haven't erupted in eons.  In the past we have climbed two of them: Capulin and Bandera.  At the base of Bandera there is a cave that is full of ice year round.  That's quite a combination - a volcano harboring an ice cave!

Friday, August 2, 2013

On The Road to Kingman, Arizona

We left East Texas yesterday and spent the night with one of our sons north of Dallas.  Lil' Miss GPS then directed us to head due north on Interstate 35 into Oklahoma to link up with Interstate 40 in Oklahoma City.

Immediately after crossing the Texas-Oklahoma state line we cross onto a Chickasaw
Indian Reservation.  Since then we've crossed into and out of several reservations for different tribes:  the Chickasha, Cheyenne, Arapahoe...  Remember, as the Europeans (and subsequently, Americans) pushed west, they pushed all Native American peoples westward, too.  Ultimately it seems that a ton of those tribes ended up with reservations in Oklahoma.

What most folks don't realize is that those "reservations" are considered sovereign to the tribes.  A few year ago they realized they could legalize gambling on the reservations even if the state they were in didn't have it.  It became the first real revenue source these tribes ever had - and they are gettin' rich!  Seeing them go from abject poverty to having huge, beautiful casino facilities with hotels and restaurants ought to be proof enough that, in the long run, gamblers are losing money and casinos are makin' money by the truck load.

Don't get me wrong:  I'm glad for 'em.  But don't be lookin' for me to darken the door of a gamblin' joint anytime soon.  I wanna keep MY money!

So, we're rollin' down Interstate 40 now - which used to be the famous Route 66.  Should make Amarillo by noon and Albuquerque by nightfall.