Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Our Homes Away From Home

Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii

Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii

The first Lihue, Hawaii housing was brand new and really nice - except for being hot and began with no air conditioning.  It was very "bare bones."  But, we can do anything for four weeks.

Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii

However, we were glad the four weeks in this apartment was up, and we were going back to Texas. SURPRISE!  As soon as we got back to Texas, Kauai called and wanted us back!  Our next housing - which we ended up in for almost a year - was much better.



Then it was on to Danville, Virginia and our farmhouse in the middle of a tobacco field with wildlife visiting daily - including a black bear one day!  (YES!)  This place is available for days or weekends, weeks or months.  You can get more information about this housing at healthier2morrow@gmail.com


There is a fully furnished, great kitchen, shower/bath, living room, den, high-speed internet, cable TV, all kinds of critters:  a resident ground hog, squirrels, rabbits, deer, wild turkey, (one bear), and more kinds of birds than I've ever seen in a single place swarming the bird feeder.

From Virginia we have come to Walla Walla, Washington.  It's like living in the Tyler Rose Garden!


And talk about fully furnished!  This is better cookware than I have at home!



Sitting on the patio we also have a view of the Blue Mountains.



So, housing is always a surprise, but they've always been good surprises for us.  The first two places were provided by our agencies; the last two places I found on line at Craig's List and VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owner).  I've found that folks are willing to listen to the parameters our agencies give us to work by, and sometimes things are negotiable.





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Monday, August 20, 2012

The Wedding of the Year !!


Our youngest son, Christopher, just phoned this morning to tell us that HE GOT MARRIED !!!  Michelle is the most incredible lady, and she loves our son more than anyone on earth (but me, of course :-)  We could not be happier than we are at this very moment!

 CONGRATULATIONS KIDS!  WE LOVE YOU BOTH!  

MAY GOD BE WITH YOU EVERY SECOND FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIVES!  
AMEN AND AMEN!




Sunday, August 19, 2012

Gold 'n Ghost Towns

Traveling down U.S. Highway 12 we pass within a few miles of Pierce, Idaho.

In 1860, a man by the name of Pierce snuck onto Nez Perce land (given to them by treaty - well, it was theirs to begin with - but you know what I mean...) in what is now northern Idaho and discovered GOLD on Orofino Creek!  He hustled on down here to Walla Walla, rounded up his buddies and went back onto the Reservation to establish the town of -- what else?  -- Pierce.

This started the largest gold rush in the northwest.  If you look at a map of what is now Idaho, and you locate all the gold mining interests, you'll see that they are literally spotted over the entire state.  Fun sounding places like the Lost Ranger Mine and Rabbit's Foot Mine and the Lost Turtle Mine are out there.  But, really now, how "fun" could those places be if, as I said in my last blog post, that Idaho is such a rugged place, even in the 21st century, that there are no paved roads through to many (most?) of these places.

There are, as a result of the "boom and bust" nature of gold rushes of the 1800's, as many ghost towns as there were mining locales: Bay Horse, Birch Creek, Cinnibar, Three Creek, Silver City...  Now, a mountain biker may find these places on a dream vacation - but ain't no way Granpa and I are gonna get a bicycle and pedal our way around Idaho.  (Tho' I DID dream the other night - for the second time since coming to Walla Walla - that we did rent bicycles... and the second time, well, I bought a lottery ticket!!  Our family will fall out of their chairs when they read that!  It was just a dream, kids.)

So, anyway, placer mining around Boise Basin began in 1862 and produced over 90 tons of gold making it the leading district, followed by the French Creek district at 31 tons. Lode deposit mining around Silver City comes in at 31 tons, too.  I was surprised (I'm often surprised :-) to find that there has even been over 14 tons of gold produced as a byproduct of silver mining!  Must be a bummer to discover gold and silver!!  That was in Coeur d'Alene in Shoshone County, Idaho.

Let's see.  31 tons @ 2,000 # per ton =  62,000 pounds x 16 ounces to the pound.  That's 992,000 ounces.  At today's price for gold ($1,614.70 an ounce) that's only $1,601,782,400 or just over 1 1/2 billion dollars since 1862-ish.  Over 150 years that averages out to about $10,678,550 a year.  I'd like to make $10 million a year...  That'd work!

Probably the only Idaho gold mines still producing are the Silver Strand and the Bond.

You might remember from our earlier blog in November of last year, that the first gold that caused a stir in the U.S. was back in 1799 on the Reed Farm in North Carolina.  Gold was discovered earlier than that (in 1782 in Virginia), but it wasn't "produced" from that find.  (I'm thinking the Native American Indians must have known about what we call gold, but they must not have been very impressed with it because we don't find references to it as we do with the Aztec.  Wonder shy?) 

Since they began recording gold production in the U.S., you can see how production has sky-rocketed in the last few years.  (Mining Engineer, May 2007)  That has to do with the increasing value of gold and the mechanics of getting at it nowadays.



Today the U.S. is the 4th largest gold-producing nation, behind Australia, South Africa, and China.  Most of that gold is coming out of Nevada.

Research also says that the U.S. is a  net exporter of goldWHAT !?!




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Saturday, August 18, 2012

The Lolo Trail

Turns out, we couldn't get "here from there" because the River of No Return Wilderness Area and Sawtooth Mountains are in the way.  Seriously!  The Snake River and Hell's Canyon are in there, too.

So, we're tootlin' down U.S. Highway 12 through the Bitteroot National Forest, and the highway gets narrower and wind-e-er (more windy?) - gets lots of curves!  The trees get thicker and taller.  The scenery gets more awesome by the minute.

Turns out, we are on the trail of Lewis and Clark!  One of the Indian guides, a Shoshoni, led them through here.  Only making 10 - 12 miles a day they camped many several times on this route in September 1805.  It started out as a game trail that the deer and wolves, elk and goats made.  The Indian's picked up on it, then trappers, and finally horse and wagon traffic actually turned it into a road that we follow today.

This was known as the Lolo Trail and followed the ridges rather than the valleys because there were too many cliffs and gorges.  Now, critters eek out the path of least resistance which creates a LOT of switchbacks.  Lewis and Clark grew really weary of the meandering.  It puts me in mind of the Al-Can Highway (Alaska to Canada.  Now THAT'S a story worth getting to know!!)  But over the years, as improvements and repairs took place, the road has lost a lot of it's twist, turns, and hills.   The Lolo Trail hasn't enjoyed quite as many "straightenings."

On the far side, the hills begin to round out and the trees begin to thin out.  We're down beside the river coming off Lower Granite Lake out of Moscow (Idaho) now and meandering with the river.  We're just crossing into Washington state.



Turns out this is big wheat country.  In fact, thanks to wheat, Walla Walla once laid claim to having more millionaires than anywhere else in Washington!


In Texas, the fields are flat as a flitter.  I doubt our farmers would even have a clue as to how to lay out a crop on rolling hills like this.  Miles and miles and MILES of gorgeous wheat crops.  No fences as far as the eye can see.  Texas - because of the cattle and horses - has been fenced to a fair-thee-well.  In fact, in Texas they say good fences make good neighbors 'cause the fences keep the neighbor's cows outta your corn.

This is just too pretty!

The mountains you see in the background are the Blue Mountains.  I see them out our kitchen window and patio doors every day now.  I wish we were going to be here when the snow flies.  I'll bet it's just as pretty!


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Friday, August 17, 2012

Moving On to Walla Walla

Wel-l-l-l-l-ll, I can tell by the number of hits on the blog that it is time to move on.  There are so many more things I'd like to show y'all:  marmots, flora and fauna, ground squirrels, waterfalls, swimming holes, stagecoaches ... oo! oo!  I HAVE to show you this before moving on!


I've seen a LOT of dragonflies in my time - but never a ruby red dragonfly.  So cool!  And Granpa did a good job sneakin' up on this one...

Are you guys sure I need to move on ??

Okay.  So we get out the road atlas, put a finger on Yellowstone and a finger on Walla Walla, Washington and ... there is NO ROAD BETWEEN HERE AND THERE!  No.  Seriously.  You can't get there from here.  Sigh.

Alright.  We'll go out the west entrance to Yellowstone and head north into Montana.  We're familiar with this route.  There's a campground and cave just before the interstate.  It's called the Lewis and Clark Cave, but they admit Lewis and Clark probably didn't go through it.  They did travel on the river just below the cave though.  It's my kind of cave - primitive.  No cathedral lighting in there.  We're talkin' extension cords and drop lights!  There are places you have to "duck-walk" through and other places you have to sit down and slide on your behind.  Yuppers.  I love it.  Granpa, however, wouldn't go in there if his life depended on it.  He'd stay behind and guard the entrance, but die fighting to stay out of it.

Hello.  What's this?  


Is that a bump up there?  Is there a baby?


They're Osprey.  And here's the parent.  Mom?  Dad?  Regardless, LOOK AT THOSE CLAWS!  Yikesters!


Pretty cool.

We pick up Interstate 90 along about Bozeman, Montana and head west.  In Missoula we drop off and head down U.S. 12.  Now, we could have stayed on 90, cross the Idaho panhandle, and zip down to Kennewick.  But Interstates are no fun.  We like the scenic route if timing permits.  So, we're meandering down U.S. 12. 

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

There Are Buffalo -- And Then There Are BUFFALO

American Bison really are handsome animals - especially Yellowstone's!  Solid.  Patient.  Immovable!  They are the largest land animal still existing in North America.

These dudes are one of the largest wild "bovids" in the world.  
The Asian gaur:


and the wild Asian water buffalo:

are the only larger wild bovids.  A bovid is "any of a family of ruminants that have hollow, unbranched, permanently attached horns present in both sexes and that includes antelopes, oxen, sheep, and goats."  A ruminant is an animal that chews it's cud and has a complex 3- or 4-chambered stomach.


Okay.  End of school today.  Back to pictures of our roaming buffalo...


Seriously.  Wouldn't you get tired of the paparazzi from sun up to sun down, hounding you like a pack of hungry wolves?  Literally getting in your face...  Granpa and I didn't go looking for our animals.  If they were on the road, fair game.  But we didn't go hiking off into the wilderness. 


I suppose that's something everyone needs to know about vacationing:  You don't HAVE to go hiking to see amazing things.  If you can get in a car, you can see some wonderful stuff.  So, GO!  (And if you're 62 or over, get a Senior Pass at the National Park and get in for free for the rest of your life


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TB Skin Test in the Middle of Nowhere

Out of the clear blue we get an email from the agency we're traveling to Walla Walla for, and we are told that John has to have another skin test for tuberculosis.  Once they "scratch" you, two days later you have to go back to have it looked at for reaction.  Hello.  We're in the middle of Yellowstone National Park!  There aren't a lot of doctor's offices or hospitals here...

We could drive down to Jackson Hole, but that's an hour-plus down there and an hour-plus back.  Of course, to get it "read" we'd have to do that trek again...  I explain that to our agency and offer our willingness to do just that.  It would be a real bummer, taking a half day twice to get the deed accomplished, but we're willing.

It occurs to me, however, that there MUST be a clinic in the Park, and since Yellowstone is such an international tourist destination, I'd bet they have the ability to check for TB.  I suggest that to the agency.  They get back to us with an appointment time at the clinic at Old Faithful.  (Yea!)




It cost twice as much as if we'd gotten the TB skin test done at home or at a regular clinic, but without it being done - immediately - the facility we're headed for in Walla Walla will be very unhappy.  Our travel agency DID offer to pay half of the cost, which we thought was a really cool thing, and reimbursed us on John's first paycheck.  Good folks!

(And thank you, Katie O' at the Yellowstone Clinic, for organizing everything for us to get this accomplished!)


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Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Squirrely Waterfalls



This guy wasn't much bigger than a chipmunk.  He has his lil' house in the rock wall, came out to say hello, and then went off in search of some food to "squirrel" away for the winter.



If you look to the left of where Granpa is standing this is what you see.


Looking to the right...






Put a cowboy hat on this guy and you have a John Wayne look-alike!



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Monday, August 13, 2012

Buffalo Road


There are several places in Yellowstone that you KNOW you will encounter buffalo.  It's amazing to me that for YEARS we've been going to Yellowstone, and we know where these places are.  Why do  the buffalo keep coming to these places?  They should know WE are gonna be here; if I was a buffalo, I'd avoid those spots like the plague.  Do you think maybe the ENJOY causing buffalo jams?



Another good close-up!



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Sunday, August 12, 2012

Velvet

Wow.  Now this is a close up!  You can even see why they call the membrane covering an elk's horns during growth "velvet."


Come rutting season, the elk scrape that velvet off on tree trunks.  It's like taking a sword out of a sheath:  he's getting ready for battle!

What's that in the top right corner?  More horns?


 Yuppers!


Adios, amigo.




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Saturday, August 11, 2012

Elk Pond


We finally tear ourselves away from the grizzly (so to speak) and mosey on down the road lookin' for some more interesting stuff.  

The elk pond isn't just for elk.  See the three buffalo in the back?  But only the elk (and a few Canadian geese) were in the pond...



When we zoom out too much we run out of pixels, but occasionally it's kinda fun...



I think this was the only buck in the bunch.  Compared to some of the elk we saw, though, this guy's rack is pretty small, so I'm thinkin' he was just a juvey.




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Friday, August 10, 2012

A Monster Grizzly !

No! Really!  It's HUGE!  There is no mistaking this guy for a "teenager."  He is the real deal!

 Thank goodness he was on one side of the river, and we were on the other!


The grizzly bear is officially named the Ursus arctos horribilis. (What an appropriate name - even if it was an accidental naming.  The guy that did the naming misunderstood what folks were telling him.  Instead of "grizzly," he thought they meant "grisly," which means inspiring horror or intense fear.)  This bear is more affectionately sometimes called a silver tip.  I've seen lots of photos of grizzly bear - but I honestly think our photos on this trip better show the grizzle, or silver tips, than any other photos I've ever seen.  Maybe he'd just had a bath.  Maybe it was the super bright sunlight.  Regardless, I think we got some great photos!

These guys are apparently descended from Russian brown bears and came to North America across the land bridge to Alaska.  (That's the only way I'll ever get to Europe - when they build a bridge from Alaska...)  They hung out wa-a-a-a-y up north until about 13,000 years ago when they began to wander down into what is now the U.S.

I'm pretty sure this is a male because he hangs out by himself and lives in a man-cave.  (Not really.  Hangs out by himself, yes, but no on the man-cave part.  I just couldn't resist...)




We tracked him for over an hour.  I'm still totally amazed at that.  Even though there were the usual stupid tourists running down to the river to get better pictures, he didn't seem very perturbed.  You know, Yellowstone is closed to all but a very few folks (about 400 I think) in the late fall and winter months.  I used to think it was because of the treacherous nature of snow and ice and minus 40 temperatures; now I believe it has something to do with the rutting season of these wild animals, too.  If we're too stupid to keep our distance when these guys are in a good mood, we're probably too stupid to keep our distance when the male buffalo, elk, and bear are hunting for a mate...  I'd bet it's pretty loud and scary around these parts about then!


Females only have cubs every other year, sometimes as many as FOUR, and they only weigh about one pound each when they're born.  Wild grizzlies can live up to thirty years!

Yellowstone is about as far south as you'll be finding a grizzly now.  They used to be found all the way into Mexico.  In fact, the California state flag sports the image of a grizzly bear, but they have been ecologically extinct there since the last one was shot in 1922.  (So much for California conservationists...)  How do you count how many grizzly bears there are?  It's not as easy as counting their feet and dividing by four.  Canadian authorities do it by "hair-snagging, DNA-based inventories, mark-recapture and a refined multiple regression model."  I'm thinking counting feet and dividing by four would be so much easier...

In Yellowstone, a griz mostly eats berries, whitebark pine nuts, tubers, grasses, small rodents, army cutworm moths (yucko pooey pooey!), lady bugs, bees, ants and they will scavenge carcasses they happen across.  Canadian grizzlies are usually bigger than ours because they get to feast on the salmon.


He just moseyed, and moseyed, and moseyed.  We finally had to tear ourselves away.  I mean, really, John, seventy snapshots plus videos?  (Golly I wish I could show them ALL to you guys!  They are amazing.  Granpa did good!)  Bye-bye, Mr. Bear.


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Thursday, August 9, 2012

Barely a Bear and a Buffalo Nursery


Yup.  This is a black bear, and we weren't quick enough with the camera.  Bummer.  He/she was a big one.  We heard later that there was one in this area with two cubs.  If this was her, we never saw the cubs. 


I really like this photo: three mommas, three babies, and Big Daddy.  (I'm not sure what's up with his tail, but, oh well... )


I'm thinkin' these are two mommas murmuring about problem kids (or, in this case, calves).  Since both males and females grow horns it's kinda hard to tell who's who.  But we thought this was a cool picture - they are so perfectly positioned it's almost a mirror image of a single buffalo.  (I don't think I'd like to get a huge mirror close to these critters.  It could be a "shattering" experience.)


Most babies are cute, even baby cows.  But baby buffalo?  Not so much, huh?

 
This one is already getting his/her horns, and its hump back is becoming more prominent.


This may be the only photo we've ever gotten with a "heads up."  Can't say I even knew they could get their head that far up.  It looks like it's sniffing that tree, but I think it's actually 10-15 feet in front of it.  And, what's with that hairy chin? 



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Wednesday, August 8, 2012

CNN, Ted Turner, and Yellowstone Buffalo

My, my.  I learn something every day!

Ted Turner is the founder of CNN.  (I think I knew that...)

Ted Turner owns fifteen ranches in seven states.  (Didn't know that!)  And those ranches are one of the largest producers of bison meat for the retail market.  That may be because he has 55,000 head of buffalo.  He also created Ted's Montana Grill, a chain of bison steakhouses.

Ol' Ted has made a deal with Yellowstone.  Seems the Yellowstone buffalo are the only genetically pure ones left.  (I guess all the others have been cross bred with cows.)  The deal is, eighty-eight disease free Yellowstone buffalo have been moved to Ted Turner's Montana Flying D Ranch.  He'll keep them for five years, then return them and 25% of their offspring to Yellowstone.  (That means he probably gets to keep 185.)  The plan is to see if they can stay disease free, and the long-range plan is to see if the "overflow" Yellowstone bison can be carted off to public and tribal land to repopulate free-range style.

In 1902 the Yellowstone herd numbered about fifty.  That herd is now at about 4,500, and has been doing so well that Park officials had to kill 1,400 back in 2008 alone.  (I wonder.  Did they do that with a bow and arrow? )

Brucellosis is the disease that concerns ranchers, and the Yellowstone herd was the last to get that disease.  It spreads pretty easily to cows, and even humans can get it - but it usually just causes high fevers in people. In cattle or bison it cause them to lose babies.   Only about 50% of the Yellowstone buffalo has brucellosis - and none of those went to Turner.

Being from Texas, we don't know much about the BLM (Bureau of Land Management) because all of Texas land is still sovereign to the state of Texas.  But the BLM is a major presence in most states.  Out West, the BLM leases a lot of public range land to ranchers for grazing their cattle on.  If the Federal government now starts putting buffalo out there to compete with the cattle for grass, is that fair to the ranchers payin' for grazing rights?  And since the buffalo are supposed to range free, what's to keep them from having a temper tantrum on a rancher or his cattle?  or breeding with his cattle?

Questions.  Always with the questions.  But, what I didn't know was that Ted Turner of CNN fame is makin' deals with the Feds...  And I wonder what kind of tax breaks he gets for having those ranches?

Aw, now.  You're gettin' political.  Better back it down.

Maybe.



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Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Firehole Falls




This is on a side loop from the main Yellowstone roads.  It's pretty, but the story it shows is the true history of Yellowstone. 


So many people drove through here and stopped to take pictures and they completely missed the story - because they didn't read the story!  READ, folks, READ!  We've seen people pull off of the highway at historical markers, look around and say, nothing to see here, then drive on.  Hello!  The story is in the marker!  What?  Can you not read?


The story is in the rocks, literally.  I didn't see it until I read the interpretive signs the National Park was smart (and thoughtful) enough to put here.  Do you see the red?  That was slow moving lava flow.


See how it's smoother than the rocks around it.  That's because it was once melted, but this was very thick and slow moving.  More and more I feel as though I AM standing inside a volcano!


So cool.



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