The Coolies of Death Valley

The above is the mule-train.  

Now let's focus on the borax works.

This is what the "factory" looked like during it's hey day.  Below is what it looks like now.

The storage barn that was out front is gone, but this part is pretty much intact.  (Look beyond the structure!  Look at that valley!  and the mountains and sky!  I simply cannot get over how pretty "Death" Valley is!)

Anyway, back to borax...

As you can see, the gathering of the borax "cottonballs" was done by Coolies.  The influx of "Chinamen" began because importing African slaves was becoming unacceptable and/or illegal.  So in the late 1840's Europeans and Americans began hiring men from the Far East at rock-bottom wages.  The term "Coolie" is from Hindi - kuli means "wages."

Most coolies came of their own free will through contractual agreements - much like the indentured servants of the 1700's - but never put it past mankind to shanghai a few.  Free will or not, these men weren't treated much better than the African slaves that came before them other than the fact that they did receive wages.  The Chinese government had a ban on emigration (immigration means coming into a country; emigration means going out of a country), but it was just on paper.  They didn't seem to care if people were leaving their country. Suffice it to say, therefore, that the Chinese government didn't do much to improve the treatment of emigrants.

The wages were $1.30 a day - not bad for the 1800's! - but then the owners deducted housing and company store expenses.

By the late 1800's free immigration was replacing the coolie trade.  People who came from China, Japan, and Hindustan would continue to be known as coolies, but they were no longer bound by contracts.  Technically they were free immigrants.

So, the coolies would gather the borax.  Because transportation costs (meaning not just money, but the wear and tear on men and animals and equipment, too.)  Transportation cost was so high that they processed the "cottonballs" on site and only transported pure borax.  Not so pretty, eh. 

They would boil the raw material in water.  Adding carbonated soda caused the borax to separate from the lime and mud which settled to the bottom of the tank.  They drew off the borax into cooling tanks.  It would crystallize onto hanging metal rods.  The coolies chipped it off the rods and reprocessed it to get the most concentrated form of borax possible.  The coolies then bagged the borax and stored it in the barn until shipment out of the valley.

The good news is that borax will not crystallize in temperatures above 120 F, so processing ceased during the hottest part of the year.  I suspect, though, that that's when the owners would have the coolies do maintenance on the facility.

Then the concentrated borax would be loaded into the wagons - as much as 36 tons (72,000 pounds!) - including 12,000 gallons of drinking water.  The rear wheels on those wagons were seven feet high!  That's taller than Granpa!!  But those large wheels were better able to manage uneven surfaces.  There was no modern road grading equipment for sure.

This map also shows the location of the four borax companies operating in Death Valley in the late 1800's.

20-Mule Team Borax

Borax was first discovered in the dry lake beds of Tibet.  Arabians brought it west via the Silk Road. It was an uncommon commodity.  

You have to be a real old-timer to remember TV commercials advertising Borax - and a really, really old-timer to have ever seen a 20-mule team in action!  Gpa's grandmother claimed to have see one in Texas.  I mean, teams like this were used to haul more than Borax, so she probably did!

The discovery of Borax in the California and Nevada deserts, its easy accessibility and its large deposits turned one Francis Marion Smith into a rich man.  Suddenly, Borax became a common commodity!  Smith's Pacific Coast Borax Company began marketing "20 Mule Team Borax," and in the 1950's and into the 1970's advertised on a plethora of TV shows.  Seeing those twenty mules hauling a huge wagon coupled to another and yet another wagon loaded with a couple of tons of borax was pretty impressive.

This is one of the actual roads that those wagons traveled.  I can't believe I am actually seeing this!  I loved all the shows that they advertised on:  "Wagon Train," "Have Gun, Will Travel," "Death Valley Days," and on and on - to the tune of something like 700 episodes!

The deeper we go the prettier the scenery.  The beauty of Death Valley cannot be shared in photographs.  You simply have to see it in person!  Preferably in the wintertime!

In 1877, Scientific American reported that the Smith Brothers shipped their product in a 30-ton load using two large wagons with a third wagon for food and water drawn by a 24-mule team for 160 miles (260 km) across the Great Basin Desert from Marietta to Wadsworth, Nevada where the nearest Central Pacific Railroad siding was.  

Can you imagine?!  I mean, Death Valley (before satellites) held the world's record for the hottest recorded air temperature on earth - 134 degrees Fahrenheit !!  Now satellites have been measuring earth temperatures from space, and a spot in the Lut Desert in Iran has a recorded "land skin" temperature of 159.3 F (70.7 C) in 2005.  That spot also had record temperatures in 2004, 2006, 2007 ...  Well, you get the picture.  It's not always the hottest spot, and Death Valley is always in the running for that dubious distinction.

Can you imagine sitting on a wagon seat with no shade for days on end!  They only did this long enough for Smith to get a railroad line built to do the hauling - but still !  And as Smith bought mineral rights elsewhere, the mule teams would do the hauling from the new location until more rail lines could be built.

But as I mentioned, we were here in the winter and the weather was wonderful!  Death Valley drops to 282 feet below sea level and gets less than 2" of rain a year which is less than most desert environments.  We absolutely had the best time traveling through Death Valley.  Surprise, surprise, surprise!  Thank you, Lord!

A Resort Hotel in Death Valley??

Furnace Creek Resort

There really is a place named Furnace Creek, as well as places like Funeral Mountains, Coffin Peak, Hell's Gate, Starvation Canyon and Dead Man Pass.  You can trust that this resort was NOT here when the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp) was down here in the 1930's.  It was more like what the Shoshone Indians lived in before the white man came, with ancient foot-trails and petroglyphs .  That, and the remains of white man's capitalism:  borax and metal ore mines, ghost towns, and things like Old Dinah:

This ol' steam tractor and her ore wagons (circa 1894) replaced the 20 mule teams.  She was herself replaced by the Borate and Daggett railroad.  Because of the climate, things down here don't rust like they do elsewhere in the world, so this is the real deal.  She was abandoned on the Beatty-Keane Wonder Mine Road over a hundred years ago!

Below - yes, literally below - Furnace Creek Resort is an oasis where you will find a beautiful place for campers of any kind.  This is operated by the National Park Service, and because it is the only one in Death Valley you would be wise to make reservations well in advance.

Beyond the oasis is what you probably have envisioned Death Valley to really look like - so it will live up to at least those expectations, but as you saw in our previous post Death Valley is so much more!

A Surprise Visit to Death Valley!

Well, Granpa decided that he wanted to see Yosemite National Park again.  It was okay the first time around, but just wasn't that impressive to me.  He's asking me how long it would take to get hither, tither and yon.  I finally pull out the road atlas and, as a result, I suggest we get to Yosemite through the eastern entrance.  It's shorter - due north of Las Vegas and hang a left.  He's not real excited about the idea - but I prevail.  (Yes!)  I've also recently read about the Methuselah tree being in the area of Bishop where we booked a room.  So, when his next set of days off comes around we load up the car and head out through 'Vegas.

It's amazing how itineraries tend to produce themselves. We're loping along (Granpa never goes above the speed limit - especially in a vehicle that has been as faithful as our Sienna which now has something like 267,000 miles on it!)  We're moseyin' up the highway, having made it through Las Vegas without sinnin', and what to my wondering eyes appears on our right but an enormous billboard that says:  B-R-O-T-H-E-L !!  Yes, my children, brothels are legal in Nevada.  Granpa slams on the brakes and, since the brothel is on the right, I push the steering wheel to the left! 

Granpa manages to stop in a parking lot as I'm pulling out the road atlas.  We are gettin' outta Nevada asap!  Lookin', lookin', lookin'...  This road that we made a left on (State Highway 373), if we stay on it headed west, we're (gulp!) going into Death Valley National Park!!  But in just eleven miles we will be out of Nevada.  We're doin' this!  Death Valley, here we come!

And that is how itineraries produce themselves...

It is winter, so temperatures in the Valley shouldn't be a problem.  Not that Death Valley was ever on our bucket list, but once we get through to the other side we never have to worry about it getting on our bucket list!

God is so very good to us when we turn away from sin!  It turns out that Death Valley is absolutely unequivocally gorgeous!

The variety is unending!

And it has stories to tell, too!

Christmas in Kingman

Christmas for a traveler has to be about more than family.  It helps us to focus on the reason for the season - the birth of Christ Jesus.  We do definitely thank God for our travel-church family.  It is so incredibly important to our "survival" as travelers to go to any town and find like-minded brothers and sisters in Christ.

Now, don't get me wrong, we love everything about the Christmas season.  I will always love the (almost) fantasy of Santa Claus since it's based on St. Nicholas, the patron Saint of children.  But I love the Christmas animations with Rudolph and the Grinch and Frosty the Snowman.  I love the holiday songs and the Christmas carols.  I love the joy of small children on Christmas morning.

For most of the past five years, however, Christmas has been just the two of us.  Gift-giving to the children and grandchildren has been a long distance thing.  We rest easy in the knowledge that our sons and their wives have created their own Christmas traditions.  We pray earnestly that they not get lost in the trappings (literally) of the season, and that they all remember the birth of Christ as the reason for the loving of everyone.

We've had to forgo the giant Christmas tree with family-tradition ornaments.  (See our blog post
http://thetravelerstwo.blogspot.com/2013/12/a-2-foot-christmas.html )  We've found small artificial trees, hoping to fit them into the car and take home.  We've gotten a good collection of them going now!  This year is no exception.

And, yes, there are a few new ornaments Granpa has picked up that will become traditional as of next year.

This particular tree reminds me of when our oldest son was away from home on Christmas - in Afganistan! - and I mailed him a similar tree.  He said everyone on base, regardless of their country of origin, appreciated the bright, sparkly tree. This year it is we who are in the land of sand and cactus and tumbleweeds.  And THAT reminds me of a childhood Christmas when Momma couldn't afford to buy a tree of ANY size or kind.  Being the creative lady that she is, she stacked up a bunch of tumbleweeds, spray painted them silver, and THAT was our Christmas tree.  All four of us children thought nothing of the poverty - only the joy our momma always managed to create no matter what.  Momma is a what some folks would call a Great Lady.

If you like our blog, you can buy the book forms on Amazon under the “Heritage Travels” titles. 

Cattle Rancing and Palo Duro

Charles Goodnight (March 5, 1836 - December 12, 1929) is about as famous a Texas cattleman as there ever will be.  He was moved to Texas at the age of ten by his parents, and by the age of twenty was serving with the local militia fighting Commanche Indian raiders and began his first cattle raising venture.  A year later, 1857, he joined the Texas Rangers.

To get a handle on Charles Goodnight, think of the "Lonesome Dove" story.  It was virtually a historical depiction of some of Goodnight's exploits, with the character Woodrow F. Call representing Goodnight.

During the Civil War, Texas cattle roamed free.  After four years they were scattered all over the state.  Goodnight, who returned from the Confederacy,  joined in "making the gather" encompassing nearly the entire state, and then sorting the cattle out by virtue of the brands.  The question then became how to turn a profit by selling them.  Goodnight knew the war-ravaged "South" was destitute of funds and so there was no market there.  Goodnight decided to go west to New Mexico and Colorado, braving the dry west Texas high plains.

His partner in all of this was an old, seasoned rancher by the name of Oliver Loving (1812 - 1867).  (In Lonesome Dove, Loving's character was Augustus McCrae, played by Robert Duval.)

To attempt the first historic crossing of west Texas in 1866 with 2,000 head of cattle, they wisely planned things down to the last foreseeable detail.  One of the more memorable things they invented, or created, was the now famous chuckwagon. 

The Goodnight-Loving Trail from Belknap, Texas to Fort Sumner, New Mexico, 1000 miles, would forever be known as one of the most amazing feat of cattle driving ever accomplished.  Once in New Mexico they partnered with John Chisum (from whom the Chisum Trail gets it's name) to provide cattle to the U. S. Army.  From there, Goodnight and Loving headed up into Colorado.

As in the Lonesome Dove, story, Loving was attacked by Indians and wounded by an arrow.  During the two weeks it took him to die from the wound, Goodnight never left his side.  After Loving's death, just as in Lonesome Dove, Goodnight kept his promise to Loving and carried his body back  for burial in Weatherford, Texas.

Chisum and Goodnight eventually extended the Goodnight-Loving Trail up into Wyoming for a total of 2,000 miles.  Now THAT'S a cattledrive!

Back in Texas, in 1876, in order to take advantage of available grass, timber, water, and game, Goodnight partnered with yet another person, John Adaire, to form the JA Ranch.  Adaire put up the money; Goodnight put up the expertise.  This established the very first cattle ranch in the Texas Panhandle - and their headquarters was in Palo Duro Canyon.

The Wildlife of Sedona

No.  Not the wild life of Sedona, the wildlife of Sedona...

Okay, so we didn't see a lot of wildlife - a long-earred squirrel and a whole bunch of elk.  But our next post will be about our accidental trip into Death Valley !!

Now Comes the Really Pretty Part of a Sedona Visit!

This is my iPhone picture of leaving Sedona.  Think how much prettier it would have been if done with Granpa's camera!  Sedona is gorgeous thanks to the Lord's creative hand.

Mankind doesn't too bad himself, though.

But our very favorite place in the area is this mountain stream that runs by the side of the road. Granpa disappeared for a long time taking picture after picture of this river.

And he finally found some leaf color!

And I didn't do too bad with my ol' iPhone camera.  

This was what the other side of the road looked like.

Sedona Itself

Sedona is a ritzy little tourist trap.  There are as many shysters strolling the streets trying to con you into timeshare housing as there are tourists.  The location is gorgeous, but the atmosphere is a carnival.

Granpa had found a restaurant that he wanted to take me to.  It was sequestered behind this brick wall and beautifully shaded by huge trees (whose leaves hadn't changed yet!)  Tlaquepaque.  What a name!  I could see a whole lot of dollar bills slipping out of our pockets here...

It turns out that the food was wonderful and the price tag not bad at all.  Afterward we strolled the courtyard that the restaurant was a part of.  Very upscale shops.  Sedona is a haven for artists, and this place had a lot of very expensive yard art.  This Native American capturing an eagle with his bare hands I thought was fantastic!

This shot of Granpa and a dinosaur skull I liked, too.  There are a lot of fossil shops around, and there's a high-class one upstairs here.  Check out the eye socket in that skull!  Check out the eyeglasses on Granpa!  He looks like a professor.  I love the way he looks with his glasses on.

We thought it was a really cool place - and there were no shysters anywhere!

Long-Eared Squirrel

I couldn't stand not knowing.  Curiosity kills the cat, and I'm on my 9th life.  It's known as Abert's squirrel (Sciurus aberti), having been named for Colonel J.J. Abert, who was a topographical engineer and naturalist with the U.S. military in the early 1800's.

I googled "long-eared squirrel" and found some information from the New Mexico wildlife Commission:

All Abert's have ear tufts or "tassels" - but during the winter they grow really long, hence the nickname "tassel-eared squirrels."  Their broad tails are used as "umbrellas" to shade the squirrel against overheating.

These squirrels apparently can be found in nearly all ponderosa pine forests and, thanks to human intervention, in some mixed coniferous forests.

Predators include automobiles (duh!), hawks, coyotes, mountain lions, bobcats, and domestic and feral dogs and cats.  House cats seem to be especially good at sneaking up on Aberts.

Hungry?  Aberts eats lots of ponderosa stuff:  seeds, buds, bark...  In the summer squirrels eat fungi. (Once Granpa and I saw a squirrel at Turquoise Lake in Colorado carrying a mushroom that was at least as big as it was.)  Aberts will also eat mistletoe, acorns, insects, shrubs, grasses and - surprise - carrion (dead animals).

Babies - my favorite thing in the whole world - can come twice a year in litters of two to five little critters.

And that's the story of squirrels with ears the size of jackrabbits!

First Trip, Sedona

We chose Sedona hoping that we haven't missed the turning of the leaves for the Fall.

Once we leave the Interstate things begin to get really pretty - but no turning of the leaves.  Joshua cactus are everywhere.

Even this odd looking squirrel came to see us!  Look at those ears!  As big as a jackrabbits!

Well, here's a bit of leaf color - but Granpa was certainly hoping for something better.

A nice young couple offered to take our picture.  This is just outside of Jerome, Arizona.  It's a tiny little town built on the steep edge of the mountain.  The streets are extremely narrow and all sharp hairpin turns. I predict that one day (sooner than later) it will be a big resort town!

Sedona is just up the road ...  For more on Sedona, go to our search feature and type in the name.  It will bring up last years posts about our trip to Sedona.

New Contract! We're Goin' Back to Kingman, Arizona! Hallelujah!

Woohoo!  We loved everything about the first time we were in Kingman, Arizona!  And now we're going back!  Hallelujah!!

The phone rang on Wednesday, we signed the contract on Friday, left town on Saturday, Granpa started work on Monday.

We were in a hotel for a week before I found a house to rent.  It's unfurnished except for a washer and dryer.  I do love my washer and dryer!  That's a selling point for me every time.  The garage with a garage door opener is icing on our cake - especially in sunny Arizona!  I hate leaving our ol' jalopy baking in the sun all day - and trust me, there are usually no trees for shade.  Yup, this place is a keeper.

We decided to rent furniture.  Bad idea.  The sofa was worn out already, the bed frame broke when one of us sat down on it, the dining room table rocked.  It was crazy.  So we literally went next door to the Rent-a-Center and bought ...








a big ol' fat double-recliner love seat for the same price we would have ultimately paid to rent furniture.

I bought a folding table for the dining room (which, by the way, is lit by skylights!), and Granpa ordered a queen size thermapedic-kinda mattress and a folding bedframe.  His plan is to rent a U-Haul to get these things home.  First time in four-going-on-five-years of medical traveling that we've had to rent or buy furniture.



This love seat will fit perfectly at the foot of our bed back home!  I prefer fabric over leather, but I thought the leather might "travel" better.

John will have the same three-day, 12-hour work week as he had the last time he was here.  That frees us up to have six days of sight-seeing!  There is so much to see and do that we don't even know where to start!

Summer Storms in East Texas

The reason East Texas is so beautiful is because it gets a good amount of rain.  The pine trees love it, the oak trees love it, the pecan trees love it...  I love the storms that come with the rain: cooling wind, cooling rain, an excitement in the air.  I always pray that no one and nothing gets damaged by the storms though.

We have an oak tree just to the west of the house that is about 100 years old.  It's the tallest thing on the land at one of the highest spots on the land.  That's good news/bad news.  The bad news is that it occasionally gets hit by lighting.

See that light strip of color on the trunk?  Yup, that lighting strike nearly made me jump five feet in the air! The next morning our son pointed out why the "crack" of lightening was so loud.  That missing bark is laying on the ground.  (The place is a mess after the storm!)

Well, as long as the bark missing is up and down, not girdling the tree, this ol' boy should be okay for another hundred years - and probably another hundred storms.  (And yes, that's an oil well in the background.  Black gold, Texas tease.)

Baby Animals and the Farrier

We have critters of all kinds on our land:  goats, rabbits, turkeys, chickens, ducks, horses, and of course, Mordacai.  Seems every spring they have babies, (duh!)

And I truly have a wonderful time watching our farrier work on Mordacai's hooves!  It's a show to behold!  He is good man, really, really great at working with these critters!

This being Texas and all, we even have a Texas size mosquito!

He's made from a plant we call the Devil's claw. Wire three of them together and put a scrap of felt on the lil' feller.  He's dressed and ready to go!